Who? Gastro journalist, culinary expert and communications professional. She is inspired by high-level culinary craftsmanship and the people behind it.
Swiss-born Peter Dörig has lived in Finland for more than 30 years. In his creamery, Herkkujuustola, he combines the traditional craftsmanship of his homeland with Finnish milk to create new and bold cheese varieties.
He has Appenzeller in his blood, adventure in his heart, and has never lost his Swiss accent. When Peter Dörig speaks, there’s a faint echo of the Swiss Alps, even after three decades in Finland. With his charming Appenzeller tone, he builds bridges: between tradition and new beginnings, between homeland and adopted country, between memories of Ovomaltine and international success.
Life led this adventurer to the small western Finnish town of Sastamala, where he has been running his creamery for almost exactly 23 years. Today, Herkkujuustola has become a synonym for Swiss precision, Finnish curiosity, and the courage to try something new. The fact that a Swiss man is teaching Finns what makes a real cheese is one of those stories that could hardly be invented.
Peter’s journey has never been a straight one, it has taken him along mountain roads, through log cabins, across Central Asia in a truck, and finally to Finnish marketplaces. It is the story of a man who first travelled half the world, only to return to his roots after founding a family of his own.
Peter has found his life’s happiness and now shares it with the world:
“With every cheese I send, I pack a piece of happiness.”
Peter’s first cheese memories go back to childhood: melted Tilsiter in hot Ovomaltine. As a young boy, he never imagined that he would one day follow in his father’s footsteps and become a cheesemaker himself.
Peter, you’ve lived in Finland for many decades — but your Swiss accent remains.
Peter (laughs): “Yes, that’s true. I think it’s because I never really wanted to lose it. Through WhatsApp I’m still in close contact with home, with my friends, my family, and of course my father. In early November, I’ll fly back to Switzerland. My father is turning 90! He has eaten almost nothing but butter and cheese his whole life. For me, that’s the best proof that good cheesemaking keeps you healthy.”
What kind of cheese environment did you grow up in?
Peter: “I’m a native of Appenzell and grew up in the canton of Thurgau. My father made Appenzeller almost his entire life, cheese wasn’t just food for us, it was part of our identity. As a child, my favourite was Tilsiter. Before school, my mother would make me a hot Ovomaltine, cut off the Tilsiter rind and crumble small pieces into the steaming cup. The cheese would melt, stretch into strings, become chewy, a culinary disaster, one might say today. But to me, it was pure happiness, a piece of childhood in a cup.”
Did you know even then that you would become a cheesemaker?
Peter: “No. As a boy, I wanted to be a truck driver. I was fascinated by the big wide world, by travelling, by the unknown. In my heart I was always an adventurer. But my father was convinced I should learn a real trade, and there was really only one option: cheesemaker. The thirst for adventure, though, was hard to tame. After my apprenticeship, I set off across Europe, from Switzerland through Sweden to Norway. On the passenger seat beside me was always a piece of cheese, my small, faithful companion from home.”
Peter: “In 1994, I read in a Swiss trucking magazine that Finnish drivers travelled as far as the Himalayas. That immediately fascinated me, the combination of adventure and vastness. I’d always wanted to go to Russia anyway, so in 1995 I ended up in the Finnish town of Nokia. I didn’t speak a word of Finnish, but that didn’t stop me. With the owner of a transport company, I drove all the way to Uzbekistan. A year later they called again, asking if I’d take over the Central Asia route. So I moved to Finland for good. When the routes ended in early 2000, I bought a log cabin deep in the forest. I knew right away: this was a place I wanted to return to, or maybe never leave.”
And you stayed.
Peter: “In summer 2000, I was at the Häijää market, that’s where I met Jenni. She’s Finnish. We’ve been walking through life together for 25 years now. Without her, there would be no Herkkujuustola. She’s been by my side from the very beginning, translating, organising, creating structure. I often say: there’s no successful man without a strong woman behind him, and it’s true. Jenni opened the door to Finland for me. Thanks to her, an adventure became a home.”
Peter: “It all started, quite simply, with hunger. During my years as a truck driver, we stocked up at supermarkets before our long routes. I tried the Finnish cheeses, but everything came in plastic, white, uniform, tasteless, lifeless, without character. The market selection wasn’t much better. I thought: this can be done better! In 2002, Jenni and I founded our own creamery, on October 20th, a date I’ll never forget. To prepare, I spent two weeks at my brother’s place in Switzerland, brushing up my rusty cheesemaking skills. I brought back five litres of brine — the foundation for all my cheeses. That same brine is still in use today, more than 20 years later. It’s the DNA of my creamery.”
How did you get started back then?
Peter: “I had no business plan, no strategy, just the drive to create something of my own and trust in my craft. After two weeks with my brother, I had found my rhythm again. Back in Finland, with the brine and two types of cheese in my bag, I went to the local market, gave people samples, and handed out small slips of paper that asked only two questions: ‘Which one tastes best to you?’ and ‘How much would you pay for it?’ The results were clear: around 80 percent preferred strong cheese, with character, edges, and corners. That was my starting point.”
Peter: “Making cheese was never the problem, that’s in my blood. But everything else around it was new: marketing, accounting, EU regulations, distribution. In Switzerland, I was responsible only for quality, for the product itself. In Finland, I suddenly had to be everything at once, craftsman, salesman, entrepreneur. Fortunately, Jenni was there. She spoke Finnish; I only knew fragments. Without her, I’d have been lost. And yet, or perhaps because of that, we were welcomed with open arms. People said, ‘The Swiss must know how to do it.’ That was my door opener.”
A few years later, Herkkujuustola cheeses were flying around the world.
“At first, all I wanted was to build an independent business that could support my family and let me enjoy good cheese myself. Then came a call from Finnair. They wanted my cheese for their business class. Suddenly my cheese was travelling the world. Soon after, top Finnish chefs from the fine-dining scene wanted it on their menus. By 2005, local appreciation for cheese had grown, and my name became known. I never had a grand strategy, I just wanted to make good cheese and stay authentic. In 2018, we built a new creamery with a restaurant and showroom. That was a defining moment.”
Peter’s Marmori cheese, currently the only Finnish cheese sold at Rolling Cheese in Helsinki, has now reached New York.
“About a year ago, I was invited by a New York importer to a private tasting, which led to the 2025 Fancy Food Show. There I stood in June, surrounded by the biggest names in the cheese world, unbelievable! When the Americans asked what made my cheese special, I said: ‘I can’t bring you Alpine milk or fresh mountain grass. Our cows eat silage. But Finland is the happiest country in the world. So with every cheese I send, I pack a piece of happiness.’ They were thrilled, stood up and applauded, because it wasn’t about marketing or numbers, it was about something heartfelt.”
Peter: “The eye eats too! Marmori is a careful blend of Appenzeller and Morbier. The idea came after almost three years of experimentation. Initially, I designed it for the American market — but the Finns loved it! Why? Because cheese evokes emotion; appearance and flavour come together. That’s exactly what I wanted: a product that pleases the eye, surprises the palate, and gives tradition a modern look.”
Peter: “For us Swiss, cheese is a staple food, we’re spoiled. The Finns aren’t there yet, but they’re on their way. Finland has wonderful local traditions, like Leipäjuusto, the bread cheese: fresh, lightly salted, eaten warm with cloudberries. It’s unique, and I often tell Finns: don’t forget your roots! You can create new things, but traditions must always be part of your identity.”
“The Finnish cheese culture will grow and diversify, no doubt. People are starting to understand that cheese isn’t just cheese. There’s a difference between handcrafted and industrial, and that difference has its price. I hope to see more small producers and more diversity. That’s the process I want to be part of. I have four wonderful daughters, they are my life battery, my motivation, my daily inspiration to send Herkkujuustola cheese into the world. And every time someone in New York, Helsinki, or Zurich takes a bite of my cheese, I know it’s more than just taste, it’s a little bit of Switzerland, a little bit of Finland, and a whole lot of happiness.”
